Hot off the boat from The Balkans we were in search of sand, sun and to get back to our scooter life. The untouched beauty of Vis island in Croatia is still existent and nothing like the worn down path of Hvar. Excused from the tourism cycle, this tiny diamond-shaped island is still a diamond at heart.
Located the furthest away from main land Croatia you can easily access this tiny island via ferries running daily to and from Vis. However, once arrived we soon found out the only ferry to leave this paradise to go to Hvar was weekly, on a Tuesday – it was Sunday and we had only booked a night – so against our will we were ‘forced’ to stay an extra night.
We spent our days cruising around the island in the only way we know how, via a beloved scooter we called ours for the entire duration we were here. Wandering the cliff faces in search of beach coves and sipping on vinos in home grown wineries.
When I said tiny, I mean miniature! This island only stretches 11km from Vis village to Komiza village therefore two nights here is the perfect amount, one night will have you feeling like you missed out and three will be plenty. Vis Island is a place of extreme relaxation, where you come here for beach, vineyards, mornings drinking kava in villages and evenings finding the best sunset spots. So below is a little summary of places we went, places we were recommended and our opinion on how to find a little piece of untouched beauty
We stayed in Vis Village, which is where the ferry drops you off so, for convenience, I would recommend this be the place to stay. Other villages you can stay in for a more quiet scene or just to visit for your morning café break are Rukavac which is the smallest village with only a restaurant and beach. Kut is just around the bay from Vis and almost connecting, a place that most of the rich yachters like to park their million dollar yachts for the evening but still a quiet relaxed location. The fourth village, Komiza. This is the opposite side of the island, the sleepy fishing village is lined with cafes along the port and plenty of nooks and crannies to peer into around the narrow streets.
Below are some of the best beaches and bays we stopped in at. However, this island is littered with beaches to discover so don’t be afraid to take a walk down an unmarked dirt track and see what you find.
Milna; our favourite bay, uncrowded with a small restaurant that can sustain you for a whole day of baking on the beach.
Stiniva; the most famous cove on the island, beautiful but a difficult walk to reach the sand. A lot more accessible via boat.
Srebrna; family beach
Stonica; this bay has a small beach shack with a coffee machine in the shade so perfect spot to sit.
Grandovac; the most easily accessible beach from Vis so always people there.
If there is only one place you go to here in Vis, it has to be to the home grown vineyard of Vidovic in Draveco Polje (along the road on the north of the island connecting Vis and Komiza). It opens at 5pm which is the perfect time to visit. Nothing fancy, these vineyards are super small, local and simple with prices to reflect. The food is wholesome and homemade, organic wine along with being served by the local family, the perfect combination to spend all evening here drinking, eating and talking with the family.
There are plenty of other vineyards scattered around like Konoba Magic and Rokis but you will not receive the same local service that you do at Vinovic.
Sunset, our favourite time of day! The three best places for sunset are around Komiza wether in the village or further around at one of the beaches. Mount Hum is the highest peak on the island that looks down onto Komiza or Fort George, this fort has a stunning view back over the coastline and plenty of space to set up a picnic for the evening.
Scooter and Boat Hire
We hired our scooter in Vis port for 250 Kunas for 24 hours. The place we picked it up from were super generous and let us have it from 5pm-9pm the next day meaning we got to have it for two sunsets and between 5pm-9pm is the perfect hours of the day for riding as the sun isn’t as hot.
In regards to the boat, we were going to take a boat trip here in Vis. Once we arrived and enquired we ended up not going through with it. For the group tour its 300 Kunas per person for an all day boat trip (9am-4pm) with 15-20 other people and you see the blue caves, green caves and various beaches on Vis island. Otherwise, you can take a private tour which is also all day and the boat can fit four people for 1200 Kunas. We didn’t like the idea of sharing a beach with a whole group of people and the private was too expensive for just the two of us so we opted to just explore the whole island in depth on the scooter.
Side note; they say some beaches are only accessible by boat which isn’t true, you can always find a trail through the bush to reach them or another option is a small boat can be hired for 600 Kunas and you can drive it yourself however they are really small and slow but still could be fun!